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The wave i fell and i skipped like a little rock, like three times on the face of the wave. the whole time i'm like, i'm fine. i'm going to pop out the back. i went over the falls and in the video you can see my little head and my arms sticking out. so i eat it really bad. i got pounded. >> garret has only seconds to rescue her. >> i come up. i don't know where i'm at. i can't see the shore. i don't see the rocks. i done see a ski. i don't hear a ski. >> but he is forced to leave her to avoid getting pummeled by another wave himself. >> i had to go back and circle around. you can't go in. you'...

>> she got real close to the beach. when she was close to the beach, i yelled, stand up. i hadn't gotten pounded yet so i didn't know how powerful this wave was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually, laughing and clapping. i'm just like dead. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wetted garrett's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the o...

Wave was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually, laughing and clapping. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wedded garret's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the ocean. even if he would have fallen oen the wave, i would have known he is going to be okay. he's not finished yet. i don't ride horses.

Latest updates on this topic from reliable sources.

Latest updates on this topic from reliable sources.