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Around because you can't go in if you don't go in at the right time, you'll miss them. >> everybody's like, yeah, but eventually you'll make it to the beach. you won't. i've seen it suck people all the way down to the point before they're even able to come in, and it just takes you to the impact zone where you just get wave after wave. >> so she got pounded all on the beach. when she was real close to the beach, i'm like stand up! i hadn't gotten pounded there yet. so i didn't know how powerful this wave was. >> and then i made it, and i just let the whitewater take me, and i did like a little...

>> she got real close to the beach. when she was close to the beach, i yelled, stand up. i hadn't gotten pounded yet so i didn't know how powerful this wave was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually, laughing and clapping. i'm just like dead. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wetted garrett's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the o...

Didn't know how powerful it was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually laughing and clapping. i'm like, dead. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wedded garret's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the ocean. i feel i belong out there and know what i'm doing and i have a plan when it's big. >> there's something about him that i never wo...

Wave was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually, laughing and clapping. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wedded garret's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the ocean. even if he would have fallen oen the wave, i would have known he is going to be okay. he's not finished yet. i don't ride horses.

I didn't know how powerful this wave was. >> then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually, laughing and clapping. >> she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. >> it may have ended nicole's big wave career. but it only wedded garret's appetite for more. >> a lot of people think i'm crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the ocean. even if he would have fallen oen the wave, i would have known he is going to be okay.