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Drought Wine Two Oregon winemakers hope to convince their grape-growing counterparts to resist irrigation—for the sake of the palate andthe planet. By 2004, the two had become so troubled by the ongoing irrigation trend that they founded the Deep Roots Coalition to challenge it. (The roots of non-irrigated vines tend to sink deeper into the soil in search of moisture and minerals.) Environmental concerns were a motivating factor, one made more prescient by the fact that more than half of Oregon’s counties have been under a state of drought emergency. But the primary reason John...

Drought Wine Two Oregon winemakers hope to convince their grape-growing counterparts to resist irrigation—for the sake of the palate andthe planet. By 2004, the two had become so troubled by the ongoing irrigation trend that they founded the Deep Roots Coalition to challenge it. (The roots of non-irrigated vines tend to sink deeper into the soil in search of moisture and minerals.) Environmental concerns were a motivating factor, one made more prescient by the fact that more than half of Oregon’s counties have been under a state of drought emergency. But the primary reason John...