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The best shower of my life took place 100 miles from the nearest water pipe. I’d been mountain biking the White Rim Trail through Utah’s Canyonlands National Park, and by evening my skin was plastered with sunscreen, salt, and grit. Sliding a sleeping bag over that mess would only intensify the ick. But Holiday River Expeditions, the outfitter that was supporting my ride with meals and sag wagons, had hauled a solar-heated shower system into the Utah backcountry. As the warm water and lavender castile soap rinsed away my salt crust, I felt better than clean. I felt reborn. ....

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