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Some of the most successful restaurants in Toronto right now are ones you’ve never heard of. These are restaurants with wincingly pun-forward names (Wrap Me Up, Bite Me Grill), or names that evoke locations they don’t really occupy. They’ve never offered in-person dining, have no front-of-house staff to furlough, often don’t have physical storefronts. They share commissary or hub kitchens capable of producing dozens of cuisines, with food prepared exclusively for takeout or delivery, which makes its way to customers through third-party apps like Uber Eats, DoorDash and SkipTheDishes. Some of these restaurants are, in a way, fictional. The food, of course, is real (and of a quality that varies as much as restaurants themselves do), but all the things associated with a sit-down restaurant ambience, aesthetics, knowledgable servers carrying plates and flatware have been abandoned in the name of convenience, choice, necessity and speed. ....

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