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You’ll find all the flavors of Middle Eastern shish barak (tiny lamb and pine nut) dumplings here, but made simpler and brighter with help from dried pasta and plenty of fresh dill.

The point is there were a lot of issues and differing agendas leading up to the explosion of rage known as the iranian hostage crisis. look, we know what iran the government does. george w. bush famously called them part of the "axis of evil." their proxies in iraq have done american soldiers real harm. there is no doubt of this. but i hope i can be forgiven for finding these undeniable truths hard to reconcile with how we're treated on the streets everywhere we go. so forget about the politics, if you can, for a moment. how about the food? the food here is amazing. ♪ chelo kebab, as close a...

>> man in stripes: enjoy, enjoy. >> anthony: people have been ridiculously nice to us. aren't you guys supposed to be the axis of evil? >> farrokh: you, you're absolutely right. we are demonized by the media outside. you show black and white, people are demonstrating and killing and bombing and this and that and you see it in this and that. but you never talk about the real people who are actually living peacefully inside the country, you know? because eventually, in the future of the world, we and americans have a very special place in this middle east. you cannot play a game without consider...

"disappeared" into the maw of the national security system. ♪ ♪ >> jason: we are in the northernmost spit of land in tehran. up here, in darband, the road stops and it gets really steep. a place for iranians to escape the heat, escape the pollution, and have a kebab and a shisha, and just kind of unwind. as print journalists, our job's difficult but it's also kind of easy 'cause there's so much to write about.

You know? >> anthony: i don't know that i can put it in any kind of perspective. i feel, you know, deeply conflicted. deeply confusing, exhilarating, heartbreaking, beautiful place. >> jason: yeah, exactly. ♪ [ tires squeal ] [ laughter ] >> keyvan: american cars are crazy. >> anthony: american cars are crazy and they're fun. [ tires squeal ] all i can tell you is the iran i've seen on tv and read about in the papers, it's a much bigger picture. let's put it this way, it's