Jan Hojer News Today : Breaking News, Live Updates & Top Stories | Vimarsana

At its most basic, fitness is the ability to deal with the physical and mental stresses of everyday life — whatever that looks like to you.

Odysseus at the limestone swell of Gotterwandl, near Innsbruck. She’d been trying the 25-meter 8b/c Janus (5.14a/b) all that day last August and was tired, but still wanted to do something else. Odysseus was “short and punchy,” as she puts it. Only 10 meters. Why not?  The route is slightly overhung, with only decent holds. She nearly fell on the first crux, a deadpoint, and when she reached a good hold decided to fight—then onsighted her first 8b (5.13d). “It was totally unexpected,” she says. Thompson-Smith had spent the spring pandemic lockdown training in Germany with her ...

Sometimes reading the route and committing the sequences to memory aren’t enough. Sometimes you need a full-on book to help you send… or at least that’s how it went for the Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on the first ascent of The Big Island Assis (“Assis” means “sit,” for the non-Francophones), what is being called one of the hardest boulder problems in the world, possibly the second (or third, depending on consensus grades) V17 in the world. The first V17 in the world was Nalle Hukkataival’s  “The first part is reachy so I was lucky to have a good ape index and a book in ...