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Nehchal Sandhu Come winter, vendors selling carpets and shawls, using all manner of transport ranging from cars to cycles, flow through the streets of northern India. While the carpets offered trace their origins to production centres in the extended tract between Jammu and Kashmir and the eastern borders of Uttar Pradesh, the shawls are mostly said to be from Kashmir. With manufacturers of woollen products in Amritsar and Ludhiana producing high quality fabrics for the winter, unscrupulous traders make bids, often successful, to palm off such materials as the output of Kashmiri artisans, and...

Nehchal Sandhu Winter was well underway in 1981 and biannual visits to the few personnel serving in bleak, forbidding and harsh terrain in each of the six isolated northern pockets had been accomplished. The cadence of official demands was fading. The prospect of being discovered for being away from headquarters was remote, since only Morse Code communication existed between us in Ladakh and our principals in Delhi and Chandigarh. So, it was an opportune juncture to explore southern Leh district, which did not educe attention in the normal course of our duties. That was even otherwise a less ...