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Few parts of wine-growing France can match the intrigue and diversity of the Pyrenean foothills. It’s a region which combines relatively low latitudes (warmth and generous light), rumpled relief and altitude (for freshness and cool nights) and generous rainfall (drought spells are rare here). This diversity of landscape is reflected by the fact that many growers here produce vines alongside a range of other crops, and raise livestock, too. Their vineyards are carefully sited, and sometimes of great antiquity – but not all have time to make and market their own wines. Plaimont is the hugel...

Larkmead Vineyard / Photo by Bob McClenahan Once upon a time, Americans struggled to pronounce words like “Cabernet Sauvignon” and “Petit Verdot.” Might we struggle soon with “Manseng Noir” or “Arinarnoa”? For now, in Napa Valley, there’s no doubt that Cab remains king. In 2019, 64.6% of all red grapes harvested were Cabernet Sauvignon, with an average price of $7,941 per ton, the highest in history, per the 2019 Napa County Agricultural Crop Report. In that same report, no other grape even comes close to its 22,504 producing acres. Not Chardonnay (5,950 acres), not Merlot (...