"It's the most bizarre holiday period we've ever seen," says Michael Visser, who manages the retro Bay Motel that looks out over Main Beach. "Byron is now a meme," concludes a lanky hipster resident. His name is Snake. We're sitting in Wreck Surf - one of the last-standing long-running businesses that remain in town - in a part of the shop that owner Bert Reid has converted into a cafe to keep up with the increasingly trendy demo. "If it's a place where celebrities go, then rich people go there and then vacuous people who follow celebrities will go there and wanna be seen," Snake co...