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If Austria conjures up hearty fare in wood-panelled restaurants with scarlet geraniums spilling over from every balcony, Oniriq, Innsbruck's most stylish new restaurant, is going to come as a bit of a shock. All pale wood, speckled concrete and the most contemporary kitchen almost in the middle of the diners, it's tiny (seven tables) and has a menu of startling ingenuity. The staff is on the tiny side too – the chef, Udo Herrmann, his sous-chef and sommelier-cum-waiter are pretty much it and take turns in bringing the food to the table and explaining all to the diners (in impeccabl...

In the first of a new monthly series featuring Irish food producers, Russ Parsons meets Willie Drohan of Comeragh Mountain Lamb