Trebizond was their starting-point, the late Roman and early medieval past of eastern Turkey was their quarry. James Howard-Johnston and Nigel Ryan first searched for three long-lost castles in remote country around the massive Bingol Dag, the Mountain of a Thousand Lakes, then ranged over the volcano-studded uplands near the Iranian and Soviet Borders where rival Armenian and Georgian princes once competed to outdo each other in the magnificence of their buildings. They observed the modern world which they encountered - Kurds, Turks and Georgians, bustling market towns, villages flanked by c...