A Berkeley Pop-Up Writes Its Own Rulebook on Dumplings
(Parcels Project) Alex Chin and Will Thanapisitikul insist they didn’t set out to make a better version of any traditional dumpling. That would have been a little bit hubristic—an insult, perhaps, to generations of Asian grandmas who spent decades honing their craft. Instead, the Berkeley-based chefs imagined their new pop-up, Parcels Project, as a platform for Asian-American dumplings that were a little bit more modern and out of the box. The results are very, very delicious. They make a soup dumpling that bursts with broth reminiscent of Taiwanese beef noodle soup. Another delicatel...