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Wherever I go, I always seem to end up in a graveyard. This time around, the cemetery belonged to an Aboriginal village in the northeastern part of Pingtung County. Sagaran, known to Chinese-speakers as Koushe (口社), is dominated by members of the Austronesian Paiwan community, Taiwan’s second-largest indigenous ethnic group.
Wanting to stretch my legs after a 90-minute motorbike ride, I parked on the edge of the village, and set off on foot down a narrow road. Just as I’d begun to relish the butterfly-rich forest to my left, the tarmac petered out in a dense and somewhat chaotic cluster of ....

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