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Tasting the characterful diversity of some of the world’s most ‘honest’ wines in Asti Spumante and Moscato d'Asti

The ethos of Native at Browns is ‘sustainable and innovative’, says chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes It didn’t start well. The place was covered in dust sheets, and silent as a morgue. I mean, I’m all for ironically disguised pop-ups and artfully hidden speakeasies, but as I wandered through Brown’s hotel, my footsteps echoing balefully in the empty gloom, the joke began to wear a little thin. ‘Can I help you, sir?’ A smartly dressed man materialises from nowhere, his clipped, polite tone barely disguising the fact that no, the new Native, formerly of Southwark Street and Osea Island, M...