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Chloe Wyma on Elsa Schiaparelli - Artforum International

“HER ESTABLISHMENT in the Place Vendôme is a devil’s laboratory,” Jean Cocteau wrote in 1937, when Elsa Schiaparelli, ensconced in her Paris salon with a view of Napoleon’s priapic column, was the foremost couturier in Paris. “Women who go there fall into a trap, and come out masked, disguised, deformed, or reformed, according to Schiaparelli’s whim.” Her patrician brand of Surrealism which married outré maximalism with minatory elegance, “the richest laces” with “the most austere cassocks” was the dernier cri. Her so-called wooden-soldier silhouette, with its irreproachable shoulders and ....

United States , France General , El Salvador , Paul Poiret , Lawrence Alloway , Marcel Duchamp , Aldous Huxley , Janet Flanner , Leonor Fini , Mariano Fortuny , Jean Cocteau , Jane Holzer , Pierre Reverdy , Azzedine Ala , Louis Aragon , Meryle Secrest , Elsa Triolet , Mae West , Meret Oppenheim , Victor Hugo , Elsa Schiaparelli , Wallis Simpson , Cecil Beaton , Gaston Bergery , Yves Saint Laurent , Le Corbusier ,