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There’s only one way to eat ortolan Letters Hardly is the blood dry on the Brexit deal than the naughty French are making fools of us. The “Fizz de Provence” made with Noilly Prat and “local flavours” from the “pretty seaside village of Marseillan in Provence”, concocted by the founder of a Paris cocktail bar (Cocktail of the week: fizz de Provence – recipe, 25 December) was clearly a mean joke. Marseillan is in Hérault, not Provence, and most of it is on a lagoon, not the sea. Lemons and tinned olives are not local to the neighbourhood, as any French cocktail expert would surely know. ....