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Women lead the way in the world's next great surf spot


Women lead the way in the world’s next great surf spot
Lacy Morris
© Photograph by Matias Donoso
People surfing waves on Puertecillo beach near Pichilemu
I’m standing with my surfboard on the beach in Pichilemu, Chile. It’s January the height of the Southern Hemisphere’s summer the sun is out, and there’s a near-constant breeze rolling in off the Pacific Ocean. A series of black-sand coves frame the main attraction in these parts: Punta de Lobos, a left-hand point break that curls gracefully (in gentle conditions) around an outcropping of jagged rock. 
This scene could be in Maui or Southern California except the trees are pine, not palm; the water hovers around 60ºF; and there’s hardly anyone around. Sheathed in a 4/3mm Quiksilver wetsuit appropriate for “winter-worthy warmth” I haul myself onto my board and start paddling out with equal parts thrill and terror. ....

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