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For the first few months of the pandemic, I avoided noodle soups when ordering takeout. There s something about a giant piping hot bowl placed on the table in front of you that can t be replicated when served out of a plastic container. Often you re faced with soggy noodles and lukewarm broth. The only thing harder to capture in a to-go box? Haute cuisine, with its foams, intricate plating and the whole indulgent experience of sitting in a finely appointed room and having a glass of expertly selected wine poured by a pro. Wasn t that lovely? So when the kitchens at Vietnamese fine-dining upstart Berlu and Thai prix fixe legend Langbaan both pivoted to making à la carte noodle soups for the winter, I felt these might be the exception to my self-imposed rule. Both spots are using their fine-tuned attention to detail on their bowls, and it turns out that s exactly what a good soup to go really needs. ....