Rich Man, Pu'er Man | ChinaFile
“These men always have machetes,” shouts the driver. Through trees along an unpaved road, he spots a ramshackle hut, slows down, and warns his passengers: this is a checkpoint. It’s the only way to enforce rules in this part of the jungle, at the top of a mountain in southwestern China, he explains. They inspect every incoming car. If they find something they don’t like, the self-appointed enforcers don’t bother to call the police. By the time we inch up to the tree-shaded hut, a low structure with wooden walls and a sloping corrugated-metal roof, my pulse is racing. We stop and wai...