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Tuna poppers still haunt Seis Kamimura’s dreams. In 2012, the chef was hired to run the kitchen at RN74, a trendy French restaurant that had recently opened in downtown Seattle to rave reviews, with millions of dollars and hype behind it. But even though the restaurant was mainly conceived as a special-occasion dinner destination, the happy hour hunters descended in droves. Chef Kamimura remembers that one night, when the restaurant had been getting ready for dinner service, a large crowd arrived very early in the evening and ordered up the tuna bites (a variation on the main menu’s popular tartare), which required intricate construction on delicately fried rice cakes. ....

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