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Mary Ann Esposito: I grew up in a Neapolitan household where everyone spoke dialect. My mother and grandmother were in the food business, so I learned very quickly about real Italian food. I shied away from it. Because I was a kid, I didn’t want to eat a
frittata sandwich when everyone had a peanut butter and jelly one, so I put that heritage in the background. Then I went to university to get my master’s degree in Italian history and my thesis was on Pellegrino Artusi’s Renaissance cookbook that I had to translate from the original Tuscan, which wasn’t easy! As I was doing this,