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Copy shortlink: Two Esker Grove veterans, Denny Leaf-Smith and Kim Tong, are branching out from the Walker Art Center restaurant and opening All Saints. When their restaurant (222 E. Hennepin Av., Mpls., allsaintsmpls.com) debuts in August, it will revive the charming space that was most recently occupied by Bardo. Leaf-Smith a 112 Eatery, Eastside and Cafe Lurcat veteran will run the kitchen, and Tong, a convivial presence in the dining rooms at Borough, Masu Sushi & Robata and the former Piccolo, will manage the front of the house. Kim and I worked together really well at the Walker, said Leaf-Smith. Her operational expertise is unbelievable. ....
You know the name. You probably can’t spell it, but you know it. It’s eleven unpredictable, tongue-twisting letters long stuffed to the consonants with vowels. It’s a word that, when written, squares up at you from the page; daring you to misplace just one of its many wayward syllables. It’s a fightin’ name, an excitin’ name and one worn by a man just as mischievous. You know the man, too. He’s got just over 50 years under his well-worn belt, stands six handsome feet tall and lives his life by a singular set of fiercely philosophical rules. He’s at once laid-back and quick-witted; whimsical yet deadly serious. He’s a tall drink of water, a sharp shot of bourbon and can be even more bewildering than that hard-to-spell, have-a-go name of his. ....