by Shreya Dasgupta
Behind a lighthouse on Marina Beach in Chennai, the capital of Indiaâs southeastern state Tamil Nadu, two clashing scenes play out. On one side, early morning walkers wander the vast expanse of sand embracing the sea. On the other, opposite a row of identical green and pink buildings where the local fishing community lives, the atmosphere is frantic. Fishers are pulling in their boats and folding their nets on the beach. Vendors aggressively clean their fish stalls with water and brooms, readying them for customers. The fish that the sellers begin to stack into slippery pyramids on their tables represent a mixâsome of it landed on this beach by small-scale fishers, while the rest was caught by industrial trawlers operating farther away. That combination makes this open-air market an ideal place for a lesson in sustainable seafood, explains marine geographer Divya Karnad of Ashoka University in Sonipat, northern India. Sheâs addressing a group of college students and professionals from Chennai who have gathered at the lighthouse this February morning for a Fishploration eventâa scientifically guided walk through fish markets that aims to help urban seafood eaters in India make more sustainable choices. Many city consumers tend to be familiar with just a few varieties of high-value fish like seerfish and pomfret, Karnad says. This partly has to do with where they get their fish from. City consumers are increasingly relying on supermarkets and online stores that predominantly stock popular seafood varieties. Most restaurants, too, have just a few types of fish on their menus. The result is a mismatch between what small-scale fishers can provide and what people frequently seek out, says Karnad. âI feel like at least with the younger generation, theyâre totally disconnected.â