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One December day in 2015, my friend
Folakunle Oshun, a Nigerian-born sculptor, organized an Around West Africa in Jollof cook-off as part of his exhibition and installation called “Wolof/Jollof.” Each volunteer, of which I was one, got assigned a version of jollof rice, the spiced red rice beloved in every country south of the Sahara. I drew Senegal, and so began my journey.
The base of thiéboudienne, Senegal’s national rice dish and, some say, the mother of all jollof, is fish and seafood that’s slashed and stuffed with a thick, spiced herby paste-slash-sauce called rof. The thiéb was so good, it changed my mind about parsley, for good and forever. Before rof, Greek salad was the only dish where I allowed parsley to feature—where sweet and tart tomatoes meet intense Kalamata olives, crisp lettuce, and crunchy cucumbers, a sprinkling of fresh parsley works well. Otherwise, though, I’d look over this herb in favor of others.

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