the french may have lost that one, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentiment a. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my grandparents. >> opened in 1956. >> classic, un-ironic, cuisine ancie ancient, being dinners you haven't seen forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as cesare salad, tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail not