an hour's drive from grenada, the mediterranean. unlike much of spain's coastline ruined by real estate speculators and overdevelopment, the coast around here and almaria is largely unspoiled. i'm on my way to the local version of a beach barbecue. working the grill, chef juan moria. he heads the highly regarded el quastro back in grenada. we're joined by another chef and some friends. some of that simple, yet magical samarejo on toast. dried tuna, flavor packed like