resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my parents and my grandparents. >> in 1956. >> classic, unironic cuisine a la siene, meaning dishes you haven't seen since, like, forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all served by a dedicated professional. in culinary school, we were taught this. i mean, real customers is your