Share Fatigued by the pomp and ceremony that has traditionally surrounded high-end omakase, many diners are turning to inventive, contemporary alternatives to satisfy their hunger for tasting menus — where the ‘leave it up to you’ ethos goes way beyond what fish is in season. Today, were you to head down to the rain-soaked streets of Hong Kong and interrogate any number of foodies about the definition of an ‘ omakase meal’, a good many (at least half, I’d wager) would tee up anecdotes about chutoro, $2,500 tasting menus, serious-faced chefs and countertops carved out of hinoki. Yet despite its venerable reputation — and the breathless, frequently exhausting fandom that has flocked to it over the years —