For a dessert that nobody has eaten in real life since the era of Cinzano Bianco and chicken-in-a-basket, one pudding causes more drama on TV than any other — the Baked Alaska. It’s now seven years since a Great British Bake Off contestant infamously dumped his sloppy Alaska into a bin, accusing a rival baker of sabotage. Bearded engineer Iain Watters claimed his ice cream dish was deliberately removed from a freezer and left to melt — an accusation hotly denied. There has not been such controversy on the Bake Off since . . . perhaps because Paul Hollywood & Co have wisely ensured that no one ever attempts the Alaska again.