early morning in yangon. among the crush of commuters, shoppers, people trying to make a living, rise up the last remnants of empire, faded, often crumbling, but still there after all these years. these are the offices, businesses, and public buildings of the british colonials. the sofaer building was once one of the swankest department stores in rangoon. a century ago, when kipling's poem "mandalay" was beckoning the overheated imaginations of a generation of young englishmen, here you could buy fine egyptian cigarettes, french liqueurs. the floor tiles were shipped