shanghai in particular, but these babies, done right? these things alone are worth the trip. ground pork and shrimp, folded exactly and always 20 times inside freshly made, individually-rolled-out dough. as they're steamed, the delicious, delicious fat renders into a soup of the gods, which then, if you're not careful, causes unforgettable maxillofacial damage as it changes your life forever. oh, so good. in the china of the future, places like this -- fuchun xiaolong -- will be even more packed. by chinese, by expats, by visitors looking for the deeply satisfying rush of screamingly hot goodness. the chewy, deeply savory, fragrant, perfectly shaped and folded ballistically designed delivery vehicles for pure pleasure. and the allure of shanghai-style