* * * Dressing, the partner to salads, caps our series that took a close look at the flavors of popular dishes. To produce a mild dressing that still has some bite, we'll add to the basic combination of one part vinegar to two to three parts oil. Unlike commercially available dressings, we'll go easy on the salt and aim for a dressing that highlights the main ingredients. You always can add more salt later. We recommend using any colorful seasonal fruits and vegetables you have left in the kitchen. In April, the “bankan” citruses are a good choice. Though our recipe uses “hassaku” orange, “amanatsu” or “buntan” will also create a sweet and refreshing flavor simply by mixing in the citruses' crushed fruity flesh.