to our print magazine. The Japanese dish of hiyayakko can be exuberant, decadent, even sensual. It is also, essentially and unabashedly, a chilled block of silken tofu with toppings. ( Hiya means âcoldâ in Japanese.) When silken tofu is fresh, it can be sublime, with a velvety richness, suppleness, and nuttiness unlike other tofu. Back when it was possible, I would often go to Hibino in Brooklyn just to eat its version of hiyayakko. The house tofu came in a small glass yogurt jar with two tiny spoons for sharing alongside a dish of minced scallions and grated ginger and a decanter of light soy sauce. When I can, I now buy fresh Meiji tofu in Los Angeles to use as my base.