Johnny Spero in his kitchen at Reverie. Photograph by Lauren Bulbin Of all the pandemic restaurant pivots, the one at Reverie in Georgetown was among the most drastic. For more than a month, chef/owner Johnny Spero flipped his avant-garde tasting salon into Lonely Hunter, a pizza pop-up. Spero needed an idea to keep his restaurant afloat while indoor dining was closed: “We didn’t want to do something that cheapened the brand or that wasn’t fun or challenging.” So he began experimenting with fermented doughs—Spero has no walk-in fridge to store large quantities of ingredients. He played with styles, landing on a thin-crust hybrid of New York and Neapolitan. Beltsville brick-oven maker Marra Forni lent him an electric tabletop oven. His twin brother, Bobby Spero, helped design a retro logo for takeout boxes.