You'll know you've reached Puerto Viejo as you come around the curve of Playa Negra arching its back against the Caribbean coastline. There, near the entrance of town, an old barge sits anchored where the coal black sands of Playa Negra swirl with the ground quartz and sea shells of Playa Chino. A single tree grows from the barge. Though still a sapling, its foliage has the thick green leaves of a coastal almond. A handful of locals often sit on the barge's edge with fishing lines dipped into the Caribbean's turquoise waters, like a painting, like it's all part of some forgotten paradise sitting at the edge of the world.