ON THE SIDEWALKS at NW 4th and Couch Thursday night, September 2, Old Town's future gathered to welcome home a piece of its bawdy past. The famed Hung Far Low sign was returning after a two-year banishment, and white-haired Chinese men were gawking upward alongside young white kids. Traditional lion dancers leapt around for the cameras. Meanwhile, just beyond the railing at Ping, Pearl denizens clinked cocktail glasses. Bruce Wong, a cheerful 79-year-old whose grandfather erected the sign maybe in 1928, was the one who spoke with reporters after the spectacle. But it was renowned chef Kurt Huffman, an owner of Ping, the joint that moved in when the original Hung Far Low split for SE 82nd in 2005, who did the unwrapping.