âCooking en papilloteâ â which is to say loosely wrapped in paper â âis massively underrated when it comes to quick meals,â says Rick Toogood, executive chef and co-owner of Prawn on the Lawn, in Cornwall and London. âItâs such a nifty trick, and you can use small whole fish, fillets or shellfish.â Lay the seafood, veg, butter and seasoning on a sheet of greaseproof, splash with a little white wine, wrap and bake in a 200 degree (180 degree fan) oven for âa complete meal in a bagâ. A favourite Toogood late-spring go-to is mackerel, olives, red onion, tomato, garlic and dried oregano.