The current state of Miri Qalat in Turbat, the headquarters of Kech district in Makran. I LANDED in Gwadar in the scorching heat of July. After checking in at a decent motel near the beach, I encountered a man in the courtyard the very next day. Hailing from the neighbouring district of Turbat, he has come to Gwadar to sell colorful Narra (shalwar belt). I offer him tea and water in order to strike a conversation about his hometown since I intend to visit it. I was wearing shorts and a T-shirt. This prompted him to give me a piece of his mind. “Waja (sir), if you want to visit my hometown, you must wear Balochi Shalwar-Kameez. So I am giving you a Narra at a throwaway price.”