The brisket crunchwrap reigns supreme at CM Smokehouse in Austin. Photograph by Daniel Vaughn Cade Mercer knows his audience as well as he knows barbecue. When he opened his new CM Smokehouse trailer in Austin just after New Year’s, Mercer decided not to focus on barbecue trays. “I knew I was opening in an oversaturated market, so I have to set myself apart somehow,” he explains. “I’m so bored of getting just a barbecue platter.” Now he’s having a blast, making barbecue more fun and more accessible to a customer base that might be more interested in baby back rib “wings” or a brisket cheesesteak than in classic slices of brisket on butcher paper.