someone chipped off all of the d--s, not that i was looking. anywhere else in the world is overrun with tourists, but, look, no one. you're free to wander as you wish. quite a backdrop, you know, seeing a little dinner theater production of "our town" a couple thousand years ago. not bad. the only other visitors today are a troupe of libyan boy scouts. bizarrely enough, gadhafi himself was once a scout and this is one of the only organizations allowed to remain independent of the government. maybe i ought to go down there and introduce myself to the former comrades and exchange some boy scout lore. yes, yes, i was once a boy scout, too.