seen like forever. a hipster-free zone of oceanliner classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh tableside. beef tartare, prepared tableside as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a way jesus wants you to eat them. all served by a dedicated professional. in culinary school, we were taught this, real customers as your final class. we had to do all of that, which inevitably would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would run into trouble and i would be like, i'll be right back, behind the scene. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here.