ancienne, meaning dishes you haven't seen since like forever, a hipster-free zone of french continental oceanliner classics such as caesar salad tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail, not deconstructed shrimp cocktail, mind you. a shrimp cocktail. the way jesus wants you to eat them. all served by a dedicated professional. >> in culinary school we were taught this, real customers as your final class. we had to do the tableside, which inevitably would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would start with the orange, run into trouble, i'll be right back, behind the screen i'm stripping the thing with my teeth. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire.