oh, man. my treachery is complete. just because i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first look around, it's like everybody says -- it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban. sophisticated. hip. like southern california. only nicer. then you see the young draftees in the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of