just 'cause i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first, look around, it's like everybody says. it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban, sophisticated, hip, like southern california, only nicer. then you see the young draftees on the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> yotam: i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city and these walls are pretty ancient.