Vermouth finds its voice: Three to try Amy Cooper Photo: Justin McManus Say vermouth (pronounced "ver-mooth"), and then say "wormwood", in an exotic European accent. See? They're one and the same. Vermouth is named for its key ingredient, a bitter botanical central to absinthe, but also underpinning the various roots, fruits, barks and spices in these fortified, aromatised wines. Vermouth's botanical firepower really shines in classic cocktails, where just a few drops can refine, elevate or even downright rescue its partner spirit. Gin may be the star in a classic martini, but vermouth is often the secret. Of late, Australia has learned to love vermouth just for itself. We're appreciating the sweeter Italian red styles – exemplified by the rich florals and licorice of the Italian stalwart Rosso Antico – with nothing but a slice of orange, while delicate, drier, white vermouths release their subtleties with only ice and lemon for company. Sydney has a vermouth bar, Banksii, and vermouths are the hero at Curious, the exciting cocktail bar at Melbourne's new W Hotel.