It’s a calm, early August day when I drive up the rutted dirt road that leads to C Lazy U Ranch. The 102-year-old luxury guest ranch is the last stop on a 10-day road trip around western Colorado. My husband and I slow to a stop in front of the reddish-brown barn. Some of the ranch’s 200 horses are nibbling bites of hay and grass from rows of troughs. Guests amble by, their cowboy boots kicking up tiny swirls of dust. The sky is perfectly clear,...