Zymurgy is the scientific study of fermentation, as well as the new inner-west eatery zeroing in on it. The latter iteration is a casual outdoor-first 100-seater beer garden, a collaboration between local craft brewers Hop Nation and chef Julian Hills from Navi, the ever-booked-out fine diner in nearby Yarraville. Building a restaurant around fermentation may seem a bit fringe, until you consider all the foods and drinks that are fermented – alcohol, of course, but also sourdough, soy, miso, cheese, kimchi and kraut, yoghurt, chocolate, charcuterie, tea and coffee. Maybe a restaurant not obsessed with fermentation would be the weird move?