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Sprinkled, glazed, and occasionally topped with bacon: These are the city’s most impressive practitioners of fried dough.

The parking lot–scape of northerly Aurora Avenue looks much as it did when American autos ruled American life. Ditto, to the max, for the doughnut shop at the front of this shopping center complex, with its groovy orange shingle roof and signage only a smidgen removed from a past identity as a Dunkin’. However family owners make classics with care: double chocolates, twists, a half dozen types of doughnut hole and a really lovely honey-dipped. Cake doughnuts and old-fashioneds come out of the fryer with a bit more crunch than they do elsewhere, a nice change of pace. Prices remain a...