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Fongyee Walker MW & Edward Ragg MW chart the evolution of China's fine-wine scene over the past two decades.

Chinese winemaker Legacy Peak, which started producing grapes more or less by accident in 1997, symbolises the rapid growth of an industry that now wins accolades in global markets, but it once came close to giving up.

Chinese winemaker Legacy Peak, which started producing grapes more or less by accident in 1997, symbolizes the rapid growth of an industry that now wins accolades in global markets, but it once came close to giving up. “We wanted to pull out all the vines and call it quits,” said Liu Hai, its second-generation owner, recalling early struggles to cultivate a barren plot received from a local government in payment for construction work. His family knew nothing about farming when they got the land in the arid north-central region of Ningxia on condition that it be devoted only to grapes, but ...